Sea Fever's Journey Across From La Paz Mexico to Marquesas Islands
Comments on the Oceans from A Short History of Nearly Everything, by Bill Bryson (pg.333)
There are 1.3 billion cubic kilometers of water on Earth and that is all we're going to get. The system is closed; practically speaking nothing can be added or subtracted. The water you drink has been around doing its job since the Earth was young. By 3.8 billion years ago, the oceans had (at least more or less) achieved their present volumes.
The water realm is known as the hydrosphere and it is overwhelmingly oceanic. Ninety-seven per cent of all he water on Earth is in the seas, the greater part of it in the Pacific, which is bigger than all the land masses put together. Altogether the Pacific holds just over half of all the ocean water (51.6 per cent); the Atlantic has 23.6 per cent and the Indian Ocean 21.2 per cent leaving just 3.6 per cent to be accounted for by all the other seas. The average depth of the ocean is 3.86 kilometers, with the Pacific on average about 300 meters deeper than the Atlantic and Indian Oceans. Sixty per cent of the planet's surface is ocean more than 1.6 kilometers deep. As Philip Ball notes, we would better call our planet not Earth but Water.
April 2006
Our
crew, Anne, Eric and Ron arrived 24/25 March. Everyone had time for a
thorough orientation and solid training as to living on board before departing
La Paz. Sea Fever was loaded...... water, fuel and stores. Weight was at maximum! After
some delays our departure
from La Paz was March 28. The first night out we spent at anchor, then
continued directly to Cabo San Lucas for a final fuel stop. We departed
Cabo San Lucas on 31 March.
While in La Paz, Rob and I spent much time getting permits to visit the Revillagigedo Islands, a marine sanctuary about three hundred miles south west of Baja. We arrived at the first island of St. Benedicto on April 2 finding a fairly calm anchorage on the south side of the island. St Benedicto is worthy of note in that it experienced a violent eruption approximately 30-40 years ago. The eruption considerably expanded the island. This new land appears new and raw with almost no vegetation . It is similar to a moonscape and when the winds blow, volcanic ash is swirled around like smoke clouds. Many textures have been created by wind and water. Ron, Eric Rob and I did a dive here encountering absolutely clear water, rich marine life and several sharks.
The next two nights were spent at nearby Isla Socorro. Officials from the Mexican Navy Base came to Sea Fever to check our papers and permits. Unfortunately we were not allowed to go ashore. There is also an active research base to study the Humpback Whales.
After presenting our permits, we went around to the western side of the island anchoring in a small bay for the night and to enjoy more swimming, snorkeling and diving. This was a special anchorage as we were entertained most of the day by a mother Humpback whale and her small calf. As we departed that evening for the Marquesas (April 9) the baby Humpback stuck its tail straight up out of the water as if to wave goodbye and good luck.
After visiting the islands, it was time to get down to the rhythm of an open water voyage. It will take us about three weeks to arrive in the Marquesas Islands. Rob put up a rotating watch and galley duty schedule. Watches were twice a (24 hour) day, hand steering three hours each watch. Each of us cooked a lunch or dinner every 4 days. Everyone got their own breakfast. So we eat, sleep, read and watch and fish. Seems like not much, but there is a lot to do. Rob seemed to always have some job for us. Sails up, sails down, clean this, polish that, fix that, fix this! No rest for the wicked!
Ron, a biologist and professional ornithologist, had given himself the project of counting, recording and photographing the pelagic birds (and other wildlife) encountered on this voyage. As a result, we all tried to learn flight patterns, markings and names of the birds flying by or with us. Several pods of dolphins also visited us riding on the bow. Ron and Eric fished keeping us well supplies with yellow fin tuna and skipjack.
The trade winds pushed us along nicely except for a few days when there was no wind. The swell provided a constant roll testing our sea legs constantly giving us quite a workout. Thanks to non skid rubber mats, spills were kept some what to a minimum. A rolling vessel always makes anything you do more difficult, even sleeping! Eric kept changing beds trying to find comfort. He settled on his original bunk!
On one of the days the wind was lost, Rob turned off the engine and we all jumped in the ocean for a swim. Ron, put on his snorkel and was amazed to find rich marine life so far away from land. He brought aboard a pelagic snail (one that lives at sea). It has a small bubbly sail to keep it afloat and act as a sail......fascinating!
A log book was kept, each person writing down our position, weather, barometer, wind, time and comments. Looking through it before writing this journal, there are many comments regarding the stars. There were some amazingly clear nights, stars becoming less bright as the full moon approached and brightening once again as the moon waned.
One night five juvenile Brown Boobies decided hitch a ride and to spend the night on the aft frame. At first we thought this was great, but it turned out that they were a very messy bunch exploding excrement all over the back deck! It took us much of the next morning to get it cleaned up. We were very happy they did not try again the next night.
April 19th we crossed the equator with much celebration! Ron's staff at work gave him a specially labeled bottle of beer for the occasion. Those of us who were crossing the Equator for the first time by boat had to drink a cocktail of "Tuna Blood" as a sacrifice to King Neptune so he would protect us for the remainder of our journey.
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We spotted land very early in the morning of 26 April. The island of Hiva Oa was beginning to show itself on the horizon. Arriving in the early dawn light, we see very steep ridges and jagged rocks scattered with lush foliage. There is heavy cloud around and rain is imminent. Of course we are all very excited to arrive, get our feet on the ground and have cold beers!
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We
arrive in the port of Atuona on the island of Hiva Oa. The anchorage is
crowded with vessels so we decide to anchor outside the jetty.
Unloading the dinghy, we get ashore for a walk into town to begin the process of checking into the
country, a challenging project from some of the stories we have heard.
However,
with patience, manners, smiles and compliments, we are legal after 2 days of
going to the offices, filling out papers, going to the bank.
Our Pacific Voyage to the Marquesas was as good or better than we could have expected. We had fair winds, a good crew. Our provisions provided us with plenty of fresh ingredients for very fine meals.
Anne left us here in Hiva Oa to return to her home in Portland. While she was away, her husband got her a boat for her birthday! Needless to say, she was anxious to get back to the USA and play with her present!. Ann was an excellent helmsperson and a great help on the voyage. Ron and Eric will stay with us until we arrive in Papeéte.
