Turkey

We checked out of Greece on 7 October, and crossed the channel to Turkey. Arriving at the city of Bodrum, it takes almost a full day to check in. However, in the mean time, we were free to explore the city as we pleased. Not too much problem here!

We anchor outside the harbour near the local castle which dates back to the third century, and rebuilt by the (Crusaders) Knights of St. John. (These guys really got around!)

We toured the castle, finding it to be the best yet. Artisans displaying their crafts, a huge store of underwater artifacts recovered from the Turkish seas, landscaping, nice shops and cafes. A castle that is alive!

The money exchange in Turkey is phenomenal! One million Turkish liras are equal to two US dollars. So immediately upon changing money, we become instant millionaires! Unless you belong to a Fortune 500 company, used to dealing with all these zeros, the money can be quite confusing! But we will get it as the days go on.

Dominating the Turkish harbors and coastline are beautiful Turkish ships called Gilets. These vessels are made of wood with hull and deck houses highly varnished. They are mainly used for tourist trips and there are hundreds of them! It is hard to believe they make any money. The ships are at least fifty feet long and carry minimum of ten passengers (for overnight trips), lots more for day trips. They have masts, but do not sail, mainly using their engine. I do not tire of seeing them as the lines of each ship are a pleasure to look at.

In Bodrum, I noticed an advertisement for a Turkish bath. This is something to experience!! So off I go to find the baths. Greeted and given a sarong, I am directed to a room to undress in. I go down some stairs and through a very heavy door. I am not sure what to do in the marble walled circular rooms. Fortunately there were some other women there who spoke English and said to just lie down on the marble slab (in the center) and sweat. So this I did, trying to relax, enjoying the heat emanating from the marble. Soon the woman attendant came and gave me a hearty body scrub with a loofa type glove. Next step was a wonderful massage with lots of soapy bubbles. I am really getting clean here! After all this, I went to the marble bowls with endless streams of water and just drenched myself with bowl after bowl of water. After being careful of water use on the boat, this is a true luxury!!! After all this, I treated myself to a massage. Pure indulgence…I loved it!!!

I left feeling so clean and refreshed. My skin felt fantastic. I was so enthusiastic about it when I returned to the boat, that Rob did the whole ritual the next day. He also looked like a new person!

Rob and I departed Bodrum to explore the wilderness of the Gulf of Kos (Korfesi) and the Gulf of Datcha. This is the area between Bodrum and Marmaris.

On our way, we found beautiful, isolated anchorage's with trees coming right down to the water. We took great walks, coming across beekeepers, finding some birds, and visiting ruins. We experienced spectacular views, calm winds and crystal waters. This is what cruising is all about and we feel really happy and relaxed. We even broke out a bottle of champagne to celebrate how great life is at the moment!

We met some lovely people from Canada and New Zealand with a catamaran who had us over for a delightful dinner.

I never thought that the Mediterranean would have such a corner of such small population, isolation and pristine wilderness. I think this area is one of the few left, except for the islands off Croatia.

Many of the anchorage’s have small restaurants that have made their own jetties.

 If you use the jetty, you are obligated to have at least one meal. The settings for each one is pretty spectacular, as each one is completely isolated and most only accessible by sea.

At one place we berthed, there was a restaurant dog who guided us on a lovely walk over some hills, the track leading to a valley which obviously had been inhabited for centuries.

On the small island of Sehir Adalari, are Byzantine ruins and "Cleopatra’s Beach"

This small beach is in a lovely cove, outstanding view of dramatic mountains and the clearest of waters. The legend is that Cleopatra had golden sand brought here all the way from Africa, so that her lover, Anthony, would have a place to sun himself. Scientists will not confirm this story of course, but some confirm the sand is definitely not from this area. So there must be some truth to the legend. I would like to think so!

We also anchored at Knidos, where the ruins of a city dating back to about 400 BC are located. These ruins are extensive, covering an area of three square miles. The city was extremely well off economically, as its location was such as to catch the trade for all the passing ships. There is an excellent protected bay, perfect for waiting out bad weather. It was also a very popular tourist destination in its time.

The famous artist of the time, Praxiteles, sculpted a statue Aphrodite. This was the first time a female figure had been sculpted in the nude and was definitely a big attraction at the time. The statue is long gone, but replicas are about in various museums of the world.

We continue on with a stop in the small city of Datca and on up the Gulf. We continue to enjoy spectacular island and mountain scenery. We find great anchorages with hardly any other boats about. The main reason there are so few other boats is that the tourist season is over and charter boats are far and few between.

We find a very tucked in place to berth (Oranyhe) which is only a half hour from the city of Marmaris by bus, but three days away by boat. It feels like we are in the mountains on a calm lake. Pine trees growing right to the water’s edge, huge outcrops of stone on the mountainsides. It is hard to believe we are at sea level.

For our afternoon walk, we explore a valley, which is in view of our berth. Here we find a traditional village and everyone going about teir evening chores. The women are dressed in traditional clothing of colorful bloomer style pants with a flower-patterned skirt over them, various blouse combinations and a scarf headdress. Everyone had a smile and it is obvious no one is going hungry in this fertile valley.

We saw honey being harvested, olive, citrus, peanuts, and pomegranates, vegetable gardens growing, and cows, goats and chickens in almost every yard.

Rob and I love it here and are not in a hurry to sail to the city Marmaris where we are considering wintering the boat. So we take a bus to town to do "marina shopping" rather than wait until we arrive there. We stop by three different marinas, looking at the facilities and getting prices. It turns out to be great fun as we meet friends that we have met along the way, particularity, Jane and David of Tinfish who we first met in Bali, and again in the Red Sea.

After spending a week in the "paradise" of Oranhye, it is time to leave for Marmaris. We have a good trip back out into the gulf, enjoying the scenery once again. No wind so we are motoring this leg. We stop in the lovely-protected bay of Serce for the night. Rob cooks us a great roast chicken dinner. We are feeling that this is the last of the "season" so we are making the most of it!

We leave Serce early in the morning heading for Marmaris. We are motoring along the coast, which is made up of spectacular rock formations that look like they have been put through a wringer. This area is extremely active geologically and you can certainly see the results along the coast.

The wind comes up nicely and we begin to sail turning the engine off. Ahh….great sailing!!!! Rob and I got to enjoy the challenge of rounding a point of land playing and working the strong gusts of wind, keeping up good speed and maintaining complete control. It was great! As we entered the Marmaris Bay, we felt really satisfied that we had such a great sail for our "last day of the season". We celebrated with champagne again!

We decide to live it up big our first night here and check in to the fanciest marina in Marmaris…near town, restaurants, hot showers…just like a hotel. Here we can get all we need before heading to our wintering place which is a half-hour away from here by bus.

After getting our errands and provisioning accomplished, we head to Marmarin Marina, just south of the city. Here, we will get our refrigeration and hot water hooked up to the new engine. Sea Fever will be bedded down for the winter months.

We will put her up on "the hard" (out of the water). Sails come off to be repaired and washed, ropes cleaned, new anti fouling, sea cocks checked, varnishing and numerous other jobs that keep her it tip top shape.

It has been eighteen months since we left our home port in Australia. Our journey has been a life time adventure! We have visited thirteen countries, come umpteen thousand miles. We have met people from all over the world and made many new friends. Each country we have visited has given Rob and I new insights to the many different cultures we have experienced and a new perspective on ourselves.

We have experienced every kind of weather you can have, but none of it life threatening. Rob’s skill as a sailor came through over and over again. His patience to teach me and to put up with some of my anxieties was amazing. Our engine problems put a damper on things once in a while, but now that is over with. Our new one is operating perfectly.

We had guests join us in Indonesia, Israel/Cyprus and in Greece. Each had a great experience and we thoroughly enjoyed have them on board. Rob and I hope to see them again and perhaps you, in this continuing journey of discovery.

We are now berthed in the Marmarin marina in Turkey, looking forward to begin again next spring. After we have readied the boat for winter, Rob will go to Australia to clear up lose ends and to visit his family. I will be going the California to see my family and catch up with friends. Rob will arrive in California around the New Year.

We will return to Turkey in early March, and prepare Sea Fever for the new season. We plan to start in early April, depending on weather. Check the website schedule for our proposed plans and stay tuned to the website message board for updates throughout the year.

We thank you all who have followed our adventure on the website. It feels really good to know that you are there! We hope some of you will consider joining us next year for some cruising in the Mediterranean. It is easy, enjoyable, great food, wine, cheese and we try to pick the best weather times.

We will begin the journal again in the spring. We will be checking the website message board over the winter as well as our yahoo email address so.... keep in touch!!!!

So...as we say when we go off the radio....

"This is Sea Fever going clear".

I finish this journal of 1998/1999 on Saturday, October 30, 1999 with a drawing of Sea Fever in the Red Sea.  It is drawn by my friend Jack from S.V. Cowrie Dancer.