Greek Island Cruising

Sea Fever Journal

By Wendy Catlin                                    

Dodecanese Islands

After leaving Rhodes, Rob and I really begin to cruise, feeling out the new engine and keeping our fingers crossed that all operations are a go!

We are in the Greek Island group of the Dodecanese. This is a group of continental islands which were once mountains on the Aegean plain, which has since flooded, creating the Aegean Sea. The archipelago lies in a crescent chain along the Turkish coast curving southwest towards Crete.

Interestingly enough, these islands were under Turkish rule for four hundred years. The Dodecanese Islands became part of Greece as recently as 1947. Despite foreign occupation for a total of over five hundred years, the islands and their inhabitants have retained their intrinsic culture with little evidence of so many years under foreign occupation.

The landscape of the islands is generally very dry and rocky with little vegetation. The exceptions to this (comparatively speaking) are the islands of Rhodes, Nisyros and Kos. The weather during the summer is warm and sunny and the popular islands have swarms of tourists from Europe. Each island has its own character with very interesting ancient ruins of fort /s, castle/s and cities. Each located in the most advantageous site such as the highest peak, the entrance to most important harbour or high up in the hills.

The "meltemi" a Mediterranean wind phenomena lasts from July to October. This wind, strongest in July and August, comes from the Northwest-west and can be occasionally up to gale force. It lasts for about five days, lets up for two or three days and then starts again. It can make for some great sailing but sometimes it can be a little much if it is coming from the direction we want to go. Fortunately, the islands are close together, so it is not to find a bay or harbour to wait it out for a few days. So tough to take!!!

ISLAND VISITS

After our guests Roger and Peter left, we spent a few more days on Simi Island, moving over to the main harbour for a day and night to get supplies. We then headed for the volcanic island of Nisyros. The meltemi was blowing which made going into Nissyros Harbour difficult as it opens to the north. So we headed for Giali Island not far away from Nisyros which provided us protection for the night. (Actually it turned out to be two nights till the wind died down enough!)

Nisyros Island

We arrived at Nisyros early in the morning. After getting Sea Fever settled, we took the bus to the center of the volcano of which this island is made of. Really interesting! Steam rises out of fumeroles lined with yellow crystals, back dropped by multi-colors of mineral rich earth of the inside walls of the caldron.

We then hiked up the steep side of the volcano passing through ancient stone terraces still in use today. We arrive at the village of Nikia, population 40. We find streets only wide enough for a burrow to walk up. No cars, motor scooters, noise! We had a lunch of a beer and Greek salad with a great view before catching the bus back down the mountain. Rob got off at another village to walk down and I continue back to the boat, taking the afternoon to explore the town.                          

         I find a working village, with narrow streets, delicious bakeries, great shops, a local meeting place shaded by a huge rubber tree where all the older men sit and drink coffee, discussing the days events and the younger men play backgammon. As I pass through the streets, I feel like I am in a postcard once again. I also found a beach made up of smooth round black rocks. This is where the locals swim. The water looked very inviting and I plan to come back with my suit at a later time.

We speak to a European here who tells us of a walk that goes along the rim of the crater. Rob and I decide to do it the next morning. It was fantastic! Views of the terracing on the steep mountainsides of the volcano, the sea, remote monasteries, wild flowers and wild goats who would scurry away if we came too close.

Nisyros is one of our favorite islands….low key, beautiful, nice people, good provisions!!

Kos

The opposite of Nisyros, Kos is a major tourist destination for Europeans.

We put Sea Fever stern to in the harbour finding ourselves with in twenty feet of castle walls built in the 13^th century by the Knights of St. John.

The town is busy with lots of shops and restaurants. Many of the buildings are of Italian design as many of the Greek buildings were destroyed in an earthquake in 1933. The streets are lined with bougainvillea and palms, sometimes reminding me a bit of Santa Barbara in California.

Hippocrates was born on Kos in the 5^th century BC. He is the father of medicine and was the first to believe that disease was not the punishment of the Gods but had natural causes.

He formed a school teaching holistic treatment based on waters, special diets, herbal remedies and relaxation. He made up the Hippocratic oath which is still taken by doctors today.

Asklepion, discovered in 1902, is a 3rd century ruin of a health retreat built in honor of the healing God Asklepios. Built on a hillside, this ruin is a series of terraces sliced by a grand stair. It housed Roman baths, medical school, a museum of anatomy and pathology. It was built by a secret society, Asklepiada, whose symbol was the snake. This symbol is still in use today by our medical societies in America and around the world.

 Other ruins Rob and I visited were the Castle right next to Sea Fever, built in the 13^th century by the Knights of St. John, a market place and an old city containing running track baths and fine mosaic floors.

After leaving Kos, we stop in an overnight anchorage at the small uninhabited island of North Plati. Very quiet here with extremely clear water. We took a snorkel, finding a grassy and sand sea floor with a few small fish. (The water is getting chilly!) Before sunset, we take an island walk finding goats, many birds and some signs of development. The evening light on the island across from us is golden.

Kalimnos

Kalimnos was the sponge capitol of Greece. At one time, this industry was the main economic base for this island. Sponge diving is now dying out and Kalimnos is now home to the last fleet of sponge divers in Greece.

The harbour is full, so we anchor outside the harbour, which for us is better.

Greek churches cling to the hillsides high above. The town is busy with the day to day life of the locals. Tourism here is minimal compared to other islands we have visited.

We continue north and anchor off a small island of Telendos just across from Kalimnos. The population here is about forty, a few small cafes and two great beaches. The people are very friendly. The island is dominated by a huge limestone outcropping adding a dramatic view to our anchorage. The evening light on the limestone cliffs across the channel on Kalimnos is breathtaking. Rob came through here thirty-two years ago. At that time, he was unable to pass between Kalimnos and Telendos. The channel was blocked by the local fishing fleet going after a giant school of tuna. No one we talked to remembered this incident.

We continue north, checking out various anchorage's for our return south.

Leros

We arrive at the main port of Lakki, on the island of Leros. It is evident that the yatching season is coming to a close as the dock has very few occupied boats at berth. Some people have left their boats here for the winter.

The town here is very western but low key with not many people around and lots of eucalyptus trees. Seems like we could be in Australia. Stores are more up market that I would have expected. People really nice. Lots of Greeks here who have been living in Australia or the US for a long time have returned here to start up small businesses. It was a shock at first to hear that familiar Aussie accent! Note: Melbourne, Australia has the second largest population of Greek people after Athens!

Patmos

We continue north to Patmos Island. Here we are to meet one of our guests. Steve is arriving from the USA to spend some time with us. He has traveled with us a number of times and we are really looking forward to having him aboard!

Patmos, a volcanic island, has been inhabited since the 14^th century BC.

In AD 95, St John the Evangelist received a vision and wrote the Book of Revelations. The cave in which he wrote is open to visitors to this day. In the 11^th century, a monastery was founded which was to own and control the island for centuries. It is built on the highest mountain of the island, its powerful walls dominating the scenery. This is a sacred place for western and orthodox Christians.

Around the monastery is the 13^th century village of the Chora, built near the monastery for protection. It is a charming white washed village with narrow streets, galleries and cafes. The walls hide extremely expensive homes as this is a favorite place for the "rich and famous".

Steve arrives safely and as soon as he is settled on board he is off on a motor scooter to explore the island. He is into 3D photography and is excited about having a whole new subject area to photograph. He has brought some of his photos with him (seen with a special viewer) and he is excellent at his chosen interest.

We meet an artist Anne and her writer husband, Peter. Steve was so taken with Anne’s work, he bought two of her paintings. Peter took us on a tour of the island, a special visit to a hermitage church, which has an extensive vegetable garden taking up a large part of a small valley which leads to the sea.

Peter has written a book about Hermits, of which there have been many in the isolated churches around the islands. Unfortunately, as roads are improving, access to the churches has made being a hermit more difficult, so many of them have gone elsewhere…to where we shall never know!

Goats are a major part of this island. It was our first experience with the sound of the goatherds. Each goat has a bell around its neck. As the herd moves along the shore or field, it sounds like a beautiful collective wind chime, which can be heard from a long way off. It has become my favorite sound of the islands…plus I really like goats.

Arki

We find a anchorage of our dreams here…calm protected waters, quiet, beautiful and sounds of goat bells on the shore. It invites us to take walks and maybe meet one of the 40 inhabitants of the island. Steve and Rob enjoyed an evening with the locals at the local taverna.  

It is time to pick up our next guest, Bob, who will be arriving by plane on the island of Leros.

After an overnight anchorage at the island of Lipsi, we depart to head back south to Leros anchoring just minutes walk from the airport. Bob arrives spot on time and once aboard and settled in we head for the small fishing port of Pantenli on the eastern side of the island,

A charming place dominated by a castle up on the hill. 

Bob and Rob enjoy an afternoon chatting, catching up on news and drinking a bottle of retsina, a Greek wine flavored like pine resin. Really good stuff!

With Steve and Bob on board we continued south, sharing with them the beauty of the islands we had visited on our way north. Steve was able to pursue his photography with vigor. Many times, he rented a scooter to get him around the islands to find his own adventure and perfect camera shots.

We had a great all day sail to Nisyros, Bob and Steve helping out as crew. We had a following wind with a gentle sea. We poled out a headsail on each side (butterfly) and it looked beautiful as we sailed along.

We had some great walks, wonderful food, both on board and off. It was great for us to show them the Greek culture, the islands and all they have to offer.

We took them on the volcano rim walk on Nisyros which we so enjoyed. We took a picnic lunch of Greek cheese, bread and wine, and enjoyed it all in a fantastic spot with a view of the sea and mountains.

                   After all our wonderful walks, tavernas, photography and island exploration, we it was time to return to Kos. Bob and Steve have their flights to return to the US. Rob and I thoroughly enjoyed having them both on board to share a bit of our Sea Fever life. We expect that we will see them again on Sea Fever for more adventures in another part of the world!