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The 22nd annual Perkins Shipping International Ocean Yacht Race got underway at 1100 am on the morning of Saturday the 25th of July 1998 when sponsor Jocelyn Perkins aboard H.M.A.S. Wollongong signaled the firing of the Bofor. The majority of the 51 yachts heading for the Spice Islands capital of Ambon, hoisted their spinnakers, which made one of the most colourful sights witnessed on the normally sparsely populated harbour, yachting wise.
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As the yachts left Darwin, a local news photographer snapped this picture of Sea Fever and
Zuma. Zuma went on to shatter the race record and take 1st place overall, while Sea Fever
finished 20 out of 30 in the class.
Thanks to the race committee and the Darwin based internet company Octa4, I was able to track Sea Fever's progress from start to finish. Twice each day, Wendy radioed the boat's position to the race headquarters, where the data was posted to the Internet on an interactive map. Here is a screen shot of the yacht's positions on the last day, just as they neared Ambon:
Wendy reported that the five day crossing was relatively uneventful after such an exciting start. Winds were so light that they had to use the light wind sail to keep moving. Sea Fever is laden to 20 tons, so it takes quite a bit to get her moving and maintain speed under sail. They did not use the motor once through the entire race, so speed averaged at just 5 knots. Winds were so light at the end of the race, it took over seven hours to cover the last 2.5 miles! A nighttime storm blew in, and Sea Fever arrived Ambon Harbour on the 30th of July at 4:49 am, having covered the 600 nautical miles in 5 days.
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Ambon is a mountainous volcanic island and is one of a chain of such islands that sweeps up in a great arc from Timor to Seram, encircling the Banda Sea. What distinguishes Ambon from the dozens of other islands in the chain, and what has made it a military and economic prize for European and Asian colonists for the last 1000 years, is the huge natural deep water harbour, 12 miles long, that almost divides the island in two. On the southern shore of that harbour lies Ambon city, capital and commercial centre of the Indonesian province of Maluku, otherwise known as the Moluccas or Spice Islands. Ambon & Maluku are in the upper right portion of the map below.
In a letter from Ambon, Wendy says that she is glad to have some previous experience traveling in Southeast Asia. Hepatitis A is a big concern, so they are taking extra care in handling Fruits and vegetables. Sea Fever is well provisioned, but water is the most precious commodity on the boat. While at sea, they are using salt water for cooking, bathing (with the occasional treat of a fresh water rinse!), doing the dishes, and flushing the heads. They have fashioned a rain-water collector to help get more fresh-water. However, all the rain has left them feeling a bit soggy - its hard to get clothes dry, so the boat "looks like a Chinese laundry with clothes hanging all over the place".
Wendy writes "Because the area has been occupied so many times in its history, the people of Ambon are very proud of their independence, yet at the same time appreciate some of the cultural niceties left behind such as language and dancing. The area has a light air about it and the people here like to have fun and enjoy life. Sulawesi will be mainly Muslim which will have quite a different feeling about it, a bit more serious I think".
"It has been raining most of the time since we arrived, but that has not put a damper on the spirits & hospitality of the people of Amahusu, where we are anchored. The people of this village have gone all out to entertain, help and feed us foreigners. Under the dire circumstances of this country, you know that it has been doubly hard for the village to put on such a wonderful show. Everything they have done for us has been extremely well organized."
In an effort to show their appreciation, several of the racers hosted the entire village for a Sunday sail. Here is a picture of Sea Fever fully loaded with happy kids! Despite the light rains, everyone had a great time!
