It took us two days of sailing from Isla Deserta to the most north eastern island of the Canary Island Archipelago, Isla Graciosa. The weather and the winds were good to us, however we had a very large swell (3-4 meter) from the quarter which made for a rolly voyage. Our approach to the islands was in the early evening light with puffy clouds in the pristine sky. What was before us was an island that looked as though it had been transported from the moon. Bare of vegetation, the cratered landscape seemed absolutely surreal. The earth colors of this volcanic land gave off luminous colors in the lower light of the day.
Steve, Rob and I had not seen nor heard another soul on our two day voyage. We were looking forward to a nice quiet anchorage. As we rounded the corner of the island we saw a mast, a little further and we saw 25 masts!! Alone no more. We were a bit disappointed at first because it was so crowded, but soon we remembered that we are now in the Canary Islands and space is at a premium. It is also the time of year when yachts from many lands gather here to make the Atlantic crossing in a few weeks. We also have found friends we have not seen for a few years!
The magic of this island soon got us under its spell. Clear water, pristine beaches and a coast line fringed with lava rocks were the sights along the walk to the small village. The spectacular view of Lanzarote island across the channel reflecting to us the volcanic nature of the island we are now on. There is nothing here to distract you from noticing every pattern, texture and color in the landscape.
The three of us climbed the volcanic cone that was near the anchorage. It was easy at first, then becoming more difficult, rocky and steep towards the top. But the view was worth it. We could see the whole island as well as the western side of Lanzarote.
The village on the island was very small, but had everything one could need, grocer, butcher, baker, (no candlestick maker) ice cream shop, cafes. It also has a harbor where a ferry comes and goes, taking people back and forth from the neighboring island of Lanzarote, about a 15 minute ride. The buildings are all painted white and the streets are of sand. Locals move their goods around in wheel barrows. There is a small fishing fleet, so fresh fish is available if you want it. Gracisosa is the kind of island you could stay on for a few weeks and just hang out. Lots of young backpackers and locals camp here.
It came time for Steve to leave us and it felt as though he just got here! We saw and did a lot while he was here....Porto Santo, Madeira, sailing voyage and this glorious island. We had a great time with him on board, hearing about all the goings on in the USA, sharing photos, taking walks and toboggan rides!
We stayed at anchor for a week. Rob and I both wish it could have been longer, but a strong south westerly was predicted and the anchorage here is not good for that wind direction. We tried to stay in the harbour, but got pushed off a mooring as it belonged to someone else. All other spots were full so we went to anchor.
The next day we went on to Porto Naos on Lanzarote. This too was very full, but we lucked out and found a mooring to hold us tight.
Porto Naos is the type of port that is protected from winds in all directions. Great place to be for safety, but not for cleanliness. While safe on the mooring, we went to explore the town of Arrecife, did some shopping and generally got to know our way around a bit. After the wind died down, we moved from the mooring to an anchorage near the commercial harbour for one night before moving down the coast a bit to Arrecife harbour.
Rob was not feeling well, so I dove down to secure us to a strong mooring block. The mooring and ropes seem very strong and we are secure in a strong wind. There are about 14 other yachts here, so there are lots of eyes to see if anything goes wrong. The water is very clear, the tides big.
We are much closer to the center of town and hope to spend a day touring the island in a car rental. But first, many errands have to be done; laundry, post office, email, groceries etc.
Very
near where we docked the dingy, was the local "sailing club".
Local men build and race their own yachts via remote control...We were fortunate
to meet the Champion!
An important figure on this island is sculptor and architect Cesar Manrique. He had great influence on the island, not only for the art he produced, but his influence on the policies of the islands development. All buildings of the towns and villages are low, painted white with green shutters. Manrique enhanced Lanzarote's special features by designing interesting buildings which fit the landscape.
We visited his home which is built on and in a lava flow. This beautiful space is now a gallery holding all kinds of wonderful art works and sculptures by other well know artists. Some of the rooms were built in gas bubbles, creating an absolutely unique space. Manrique sculptures are all over the island. As we drove, we would see these wonderful, enormous fanciful sculptures that play in the wind.
Lanzarote has a lot of wind and very little rain. Many
crops are protected by being planted lower than surface level and surrounded by
semi-circular walls of lava 
rocks.
The crop fields are covered with lava gravel, apparently holding in moisture and
keeping weeds down, like a mulch. So many of the fields are black, waiting
to be planted.
Our drive continued to take us through quiet white painted villages, barren landscapes with the background of the blue sea and lava rocks that would tear up the strongest boots if you tried to walk on them. We visited the Parque Nacional de Tumanfaya or Montanas del Fuego (Mountains of Fire). This volcanic park covers over 200 sq kms and demonstrates the devastating and tortuous convulsions mother earth went through 19 million years ago. The last eruption lasted for six years (1730-1736) bringing more than a 100 new craters to surface. This has created a silent landscape which makes you feel like you are on a moon of soft colors of ochre, grays and reds.
When we departed Arrecife we went south hoping to anchor for the night. We stopped in the lovely anchorage of Papagayo on the south end of Lanzarote. Rob and I took the dingy ashore to one of the perfect beaches and stood on the lava cliffs to watch the sunset....very nice!
The next day we went a few more miles south to anchor at Los Lobos Island, a nature reserve, at the north end of Isla Fuerteventura. Here we caught up with friends. We all enjoyed the freedom of being at anchor rather that in a marina. Taking advantage of this, some of us went snorkeling admiring parrot fish, damsels and wrasses. Another day, we all hiked up a volcanic cone to admire the 360 degree view, taking in Lanzarote, the desert of northern Fuerteventura and the clear waters below. Rob and I hosted an evening BBQ on Sea Fever, so fun was had by all!
After Isla Lobos were cruised down the coast of Fuerteventura. We had a great sail south putting up the main and jib. The wind moved round to the stern so we took down the main and put up the light wind sail with the jib poling the windward side. It was a beautiful sail for 6-7 hours along the island's coast admiring the coastal mountains the color of chocolate.
We settled for the night in Gran Tarajal port along a wall. It was a bit messy, but we finally got ourselves settled out of any swell. In the early morning, we departed finding no wind and a stern swell, so we motored most of the day past built up tourist areas and little villages tucked in volcanic craters.
At night we anchored one mile off the spit at the very tip of Fuerteventura. The landscape was very desolate and it felt like being at the end of the world! The water was so clean and clear, but it was too cold for a swim. In the night we experienced very strong and gusty winds. We had fifty meters of chain out and good holding so the anchor kept us in place.
2 November we departed Fuerteventura heading to Isla Gran Canaria, a 50 mile voyage. The first part of the voyage was over shallow waters with 30 knot NW winds and a short steep nasty sea. This kept Rob and I on our toes! After two hours of this we got to deeper water and the sea calmed a bit. The rest of the voyage was one of those great sails...a broad reach averaging over 7 knots! This is fast for us and great fun!
We arrive in the capital city, Las Palmas dropping anchor outside the marina. Many of our friends from Arrecife are here as well. The marina is chock full of ARC Rally boats so we stayed at anchor. The port is busy with freighters, cruise liners and ferries. More yachts arriving here every day to ready for crossing.
Las Palmas is a fine city with good resources for sailors. We got the tear in the sail repaired, the life raft maintained, caught up on email, went out for Chinese dinner and provisioned the boat for our voyage across the Atlantic. WOMAD (World of Music and Dance) was having a festival so we had the opportunity to hear music from Africa, Japan and Europe. Quite good and lots of people. Hippies are still alive and well!
We stayed in Las Palmas for eight days during which, we found old friends from our winter port of Gaeta, Italy (two years ago). The anchorage was getting more crowded making it time for us to leave.
We decided to day hop to our next destination of Isla Gomera, our final destination before crossing the Atlantic. Heading south along Gran Canaria, we once again encountered a following wind and short steep seas which bounced us around quite a bit. We anchored the first night off Pasito Blanco which was peaceful and quiet.
The next morning we departed our anchorage at 0530 as we had a long voyage ahead of us to cross the channel to Tenerife. We motored for a couple of hours, then the wind came up strongly which gave us a very fast sail. We did not go ashore, but enjoyed the view of Pico Teide (3718 meters, approx.12,000 feet) the volcano mountain in the center of the island. We anchored that night in Las Galletas experiencing a moderate swell. We had a refreshing swim cleaned the waterline of the hull. The bay here is surrounded by lava rock with natural cactus gardens and small lava sand beaches. Very nice.
One more channel to cross before we reach Isla Gomera 22 miles away....we had a leisurely morning start and no wind for the first two hours. As we neared Gomera we entered a "wind acceleration zone". These zones are areas around the islands where suddenly the wind doubles in strength bringing with it choppy seas. As there was no wind most of our journey this day, the faster wind gave us a perfect sail into the Marina de la Gomera.
11 November 2002, we entered the bay at San Sebastian, Gomera. The bay is protected from the sea, but gusty from the island. The land is steep with deep canyons between the ridges. Christopher Columbus departed from here on his discovery voyage finding the New World in 1492. The view of Pico Teide on Tenerife is spectacular from Gomera.
The island has a population of about 7000. San Sebastian being the capital. It is a charming town with everything one could need, except chandlery items! So we are glad we got work done in Las Palmas.
The marina is small and very crowded so we are glad we made a booking. We eventually got settled in a nice berth and look forward to our four weeks here. The ferries come from Tenerife several times a day, but the town never seems too crowded. This is off the tourist track which suits us fine.
There is good walking here and Rob plans to take a few days off and head for the hills. I hope to rent a car or take the bus and travel a bit as well and do some shorter walks.
So Here we are!! Nice and cozy in our little boat. We have lots to keep us busy, preparing for our crossing, meeting new people and exploring the island. The time will go by really fast until our friends arrive to make the Atlantic crossing with us!
