Sea Fever Journal

By  

Wendy Catlin

 

WINTER in the BALEARIC ISLANDS 

 

The format for this journal entry is going to be a bit different.  The hard drive on my computer has broken.  This means that I lost all the format for the website as well as all my photos.  However, I do not want this journal to fall too far behind so I will bring it up to date.  My computer is being fixed and I will be able to reload all my programs to it...but from now on I am going to transfer my photos to a CD! 

 

The  winter months seemed to pass very quickly for us....

 

We departed SARDINIA on 26 September 2001, leaving in the early evening. We had a temporary north westerly wind, but motored most of the way.  As we approached MENORCA the most eastern island of the BALEARIC ISLANDS, we were hit with a strong wind on the nose but soon found ourselves safely and comfortably anchored in the BAY OF FORNELLS in the early morning of 28 September.

 

It was not long before we heard a knock on the hull...it was our good friends Jeffery and Janine who we met in Italy!  We had a good chin wag talking about our adventures since we last saw eachother.

 

Rob and I enjoyed this large, scenic calm bay.  We explored the village, took walks along the cliffs enjoying the scenery.  At the top of the steep cliffs overlooking the sea, we came across several gun implacements left over from the Spanish civil war. 

After a few days we sailed to ADDYA HARBOUR which is mainly a housing development area.  But the long, narrow, very hidden bay was quite lovely.  Here we met two other yachts from Australia!! Three of us in one spot!  Very unusual.  There were several other yachts anchored as well, a very fun group of people.  What else,? Of course we had a BBQ on the beach!  We also met Helen and Graham, who we  saw much of throughout the winter.

Two days later,  we sailed to Isla Colon and Cala Tamarells.  Rob went windsurfing in almost perfect conditions. We also took a walk up wind sculpted rocks to an old tower.  Had a nice swim before returning the the boat.

 

We then sailed to the capital city of MAHON.  This lovely old city is located up a long, narrow deep water inlet.

As we entered the inlet, old forts lined the way then farther up the well protected city came into view.

We found a mooring just across from the city.  During our time here we walked the narrow streets of the old city many of which were decorated for a fiesta.  We took a country bike ride to an estuary for birdwatching and a bus ride to Fornells to see the island country side.  

Menorca is not heavily populated. The island has lots of pine trees and some small mountains, but manily rolling hills.  The main product here is cheese, so there are many dairy farms.The north of the island is steep cliffs into the sea, whereas the south is a bit more pasotral. 

Menorca prides itself on its natural state.  The communities are very environmentally aware. The locals know that the nature of the island will bring tourists...so this is one place that is taking care of itself. 

 

We left the city and went to anchor near the entrance to the inlet.  After a quiet night at anchor, we went around the south of the town of Ciudadela.  This small port was very crowded.  There was a huge swell coming in and we could not find a comfortable place to tie up. So we decided to continue on overnight to sail to MALLORCA.

 

MALLORCA

We anchored in Fomentera Bay for one night, then moved into the Bay of Puerto de Pollensa.  This is a lovely bay with steep high mountains to the north, a large bay to the south and the town to the west.  It is a popular area for British tourists. The shore is lined with pretty beaches, many hotels and restaurants. There is a good town and community here as well...and a great market for fresh fruits and vegies every Wednesday morning!

There were a few other boats moored here as well, one of which were our friends Richard and Mary of Moon Cloud.

 

We bought a car...an old Renault in good condition.  It was a deal we could not refuse and we wanted a car to explore inland Spain.

 

 

 

Our friend Ruth came from the States to spend some time with us.  The weather was perfect and we took a trip along the northern coast of the island.  Cape Formentera was spectacular with high steep cliffs coming straight down into the sea.  We anchored along the coast for lunch and for Ruth to have a swim.   We admired magnificent coastal villas as we cruised on  to Sollier and Deia and then back to Pollensa.  It was a great three/four day sail.

 

After Ruth departed, Rob and I were planning on leaving for Ibiza and the mainland.  But the weather report was not good and very strange.  The predictions were for 75 – 85 knot winds(about 100 mph)..what!!!!!  We decided to go into the marina as we were not sure of the holding of the mooring in that strength of wind.  It was a good decision...

 

A few days later the wind hit and it hit hard...up to 170 knots per hour...we are talking hurricane strenth here.  Many of the other boats did not come into the marina and broke moorings.  Two made it into the marina okay but not without drama, two were beached and destroyed and three made it okay but went through hell the whole time of the storm.  It lasted three days.

 

Mooring lines chafe in this kind of weather...Rob had chained us to the port mooring chain so we would not come loose.  But the boats next to us in the marina all broke loose and were leaning on us.  We were up all night continuing on  to the next day in the pouring rain and wind trying to protect Sea Fever from extensive damage from the monster boat leaning on us. 

There was no rest, there was little we could do...the wind was relentless, totally relentless, never letting up, even when the daylight came it was the same.

 

We did sustain damage, but nothing compared to many other people.  So many yachts were lost.  The beautiful beaches were covered with sea weed, the hotel windows were blown out, the beach was now on the road and hundreds of trees blown over. 

After the storm, all of us yachties had become good friends.  We had been in touch with each other during the storm on the VHF radio, giving support and information.

 

As Christmas was approaching, I noticed that many of the (English) women were baking Christmas Cakes.  Well, I decided I had to make one too.  I collected recipes, got advice and made my first fruit cake!  Rob was like an expectant father while it was baking. The cake turned out to be quite delicious. ( I know you Americans will not be impressed.)

 

We had Christmas Dinner on board Sea Fever for eight people which was really lovely and fun.  New Years came and went.  We had been trying to get Sea Fever fixed, but everyone was too busy and could not take us till Spring!  No thanks...So we departed Pollensa after four months  (we planned two weeks). 

 

We sailed around the north side of the island  to PALMA, the capital city of Mallorca.  We settled into a marina near the town center.  We are hoping to repair the boat as all the resources we need are here. 

Rob got estimates and they fit within the budget from our insurance settlement, so arrangements were made for the repairs.

 

PALMA is a really wonderful small city.  I really enjoyed it there.  We were very close to everything and I could ride my bike to the market, the city center or through the narrow streets of the old town.

We enjoyed cultural events, some very exciting local fiestas with lots of music, food and fireworks.

 

Our friend Roger came to visit us for a few days and we had a good time sight seeing with him.  He and Rob did some extensive walks in the forest hills and high mountains (Mallorca has great trails for walking).  The three of us went out for a day sail and practiced Man OverBoard recovery under sail.  It was really good.

 

To make a long story short...Sea Fever got repaired very nicely as well as other jobs which were needed.

When everything was ready...we sailed to mainland Spain on16 March 2002.  We are headed for Valencia to see the famous Fiesta de las Fallas.

 

It is now Spring, the Winter went by so quickly!!!!!

 

I will write about our trip to Mainland Spain soon.........I finish this part of my journal on13 April 2002.